Mumbai’s famous National Centre for the Performing Arts (NCPA) has welcomed a new kind of artistic expression on its premises: a dining experience that promises to capture the expansive essence of Awadhi cuisine. This new restaurant is named Waarsa, meaning “inheritance”. Its menu is a passionate ode to Awadh’s lesser-known culinary heritage and celebrates flavours and techniques that have been passed down through generations. Waarsa is helmed by Chef Rahul Akerkar and Chef Mukhtar Qureshi – a member of the renowned Qureshi family. The duo is well-known for their previous collaboration at Neel, a restaurant at the Mahalaxmi Racecourse.
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Waarsa is a venture by Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality (ABNAH) and Chef Akerkar serves as its Culinary Director. He highlights how this restaurant manages to challenge certain preconceptions about Awadhi food. “Awadhi cuisine is so much more than the rich, indulgent spreads of the nawabs. The other, often-overlooked side comes from the homes of Awadh – food that’s lighter, simpler, and prepared with fresh, local ingredients. Think of the meals the khansamas might have eaten in their own homes after preparing grand banquets. By spotlighting these everyday preparations, Waarsa aims to showcase the depth and diversity of Awadhi cuisine, ” he explains.
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Many of Chef Qureshi’s contributions are rooted in the personal as well as the historical. The menu reflects his childhood memories of home-cooked meals. For instance, the Habibiya Champ is a recipe from his grandfather’s shop, while the Lauki aur Channa Daal ki Shikampuri is inspired by his grandmother’s cooking. “I refrained from eating vegetables as a child. She used to make this dish for me; it made me love the food and not realize that I was eating bottle gourd,” he reminisces.
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Our meal began with Murgh Dhanewal Shorbaa light chicken soup infused with the goodness of coriander. We relished every spoon despite the unseasonal heat in the city at that time. The Nalli Shorba was equally comforting but boasted deeper flavours derived from the goat shanks. The small plates sections of the menu was daunting in a pleasurable way. It was hard to choose what to order because of the delightful novelty of options. Yes, there were some recognisable staples amongst the tikkas and kebabs. But there were many other niche delicacies that tempted us. For example, we liked the char-grilled Tandoori Dasheri Aloo and the wholesome Kamal-Jhad Shammi. While we have tasted many veg shammi kebabs, this lotus stem version definitely stood out to us. Even the choice of chutneys adds a sense of novelty – each table gets a serving of Dhaniya Lasson ki Chutney, Teekhi Tamatar ki Chutney and Imli aur Munaka ki Chutney.
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Paneer lovers, we highly recommend the Awadhi Tawa Paneer Pasanda. Despite the several dishes that were to follow, we couldn’t help ourselves from eating more of it! Chef Qureshi explained that it has a stuffing made with evaporated milk flavoured with fennel, which gives it a creamy and aromatic twist. Among the non-vegetarian starters, don’t miss the Rampuri Raw Meat Tikki. To make it, the chef has chosen to use a very coarse mince and a lot of fresh root herbs, which creates a bold, earthy flavour profile that reflects its Rampuri origins. We also loved the Murgh Gilafi Seekh Kebabwhich had a unique texture due to the addition of pine nuts.
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The house-crafted cocktails at Waarsa reflect the delicate balance of flavour exhibited in its food. “We select spices and botanicals with care, choosing those that evoke a sense of nostalgia while offering a fresh twist for today,” says Chef Rahul Akerkar. Some of the highlights include The Emperor’s Rose (gin, rose & cider shrub, cucumber, splash of tonic), Cutting Old Fashioned (Bourbon, masala chai syrup, aromatic bitter, matri) and Summers in Agra (Mezcal, musk melon, mango pickle, coriander, lime). Also complementing the food is Waarsa’s elegantly understated ambience and decor. Its thoughtful design is the work of renowned restoration architect Abha Narain Lambah. Using Awadh’s architectural language, she has created a space that honours the past and the present. The washed-out salmon walls, intricate ceilings, and subtly ornate furniture create a comfortable yet artistic setting for your meal.
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In the main course, we loved the subtle aromas of the Kashmiri Gucchi Nadir Yakhnia yoghurt-based gravy with morels and lotus root. We paired it with the Khushka Bhagara Pulaoa wholesome rice dish flavoured with dry fruits and nuts. For a (slightly) spicier option in the mains, we went with the Mutton Kheema Hara Pyaaz – a delightful preparation of coarse mutton mince. We scooped it up with Bakhumaasa type of sourdough flatbread and one of Chef’s signatures. We also tasted the Ambada Dal Tadkawhich ensured we remained impressed with the savouries right till the end. For dessert, we indulged in some yummy Angoori Rabdi and Curtains in my royal apricot. The latter, which is a baked apricot halwa without added sugar, is a must-try. It surprised us with its rich taste without the heaviness we associate with certain halwas.
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We thoroughly enjoyed how Waarsa managed to celebrate the intricacies of Awadhi cuisine beyond the usual. After trying so many dishes, we can attest that the Chefs have nailed the intrinsic balance of spice and fat. We left feeling full in the best way and look forward to returning soon.
Address: Warsaw, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai.
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